In honor of the new year and my birthday I made my first-ever visit to a hammam, or Turkish bath. Germans love their spas and there is a strong Turkish cultural presence in Berlin, so I decided it was something to try out. I booked a package that included a body peeling -- a the hammam classic, according to the website -- and thought to myself, somehow it's appropriate to start the new year by sloughing off a layer of skin. In fact, I did the same thing (but the Korean version) to ring in 2016 at a women's spa north of Seattle called Olympus. (I do not consider myself a "spa girl," btw, these are the only two peelings I've ever done in my life.) Pondering the New Year and fresh starts, I just looked back on a few notes I scribbled after my Korean spa visit at the start of 2016 and literally started LMAO. This is the closest I will ever get to writing poetry, so I figure I should publish it as is. For your amusement, I present: Korean body scrub
warm water being splashed over me scrubbing - and then the same spot again and again silky smooth moisturizer something or another lined up on cots reminded of a sardine/fish processing plant at the end I felt like a naked alien being born out of a test tube
0 Comments
Today was a hot Berlin August day, and my friend Mary and I had a date to go get ice cream. Hooray, right? (One of the things made oh-so-easy since Mary moved into our neighborhood, yippee!) We were headed to Berlin Homemade Ice Cream in Schöneberg, where they have truly delicious ice cream (sorbet for me) as well as a sense of humor - their web address is the German for "lick me," and when you say "lick me" in German it is slightly obscene, the equivalent of "bite me" in good 'ol American English. Anyway, as we approached the ice cream shop, the normally quiet street was parked in with big vans, and we realized they must be filming something -- something I see fairly regularly on my street in Berlin. So we got our ice cream, and since the street felt very claustophobic with all the production vans, we walked into the neighboring park (Kleistpark). As we rounded the corner, Mary gasped: at the front of an old courthouse building facing the park they were flying four or five giant red Nazi flags with swastikas on them. It was shocking, and also totally surreal. This is something you do NOT see in Germany. Public display of Nazi flags is completely illegal except for historical purposes, so it was clear that this was for whatever they were filming, but still. It made us a bit uneasy.
We had started our little neighborhood walk discussing the fairly heavy topic of the recent Burkini ban in France, the images of a French police officer requiring a Burkini-clad woman to take off some of her clothes at a beach in Nice, and the general permanent historical state of women being told what to wear (bikinis were once considered indecent, after all). To be confronted with another symbol of oppression directly afterwards made it feel all the more weighty. I wanted to take a photo but was then yelled at by a guard: "verboten!" To me this just added to the perverseness - I understand why they don't want people taking pictures (it's forbidden imageryl) - but having a man yell at me for taking a picture in a public place just felt like more oppression by the patriarchy. Yes, I'm being dramatic. But if I were the film crew/city, I would've closed off the whole park for the duration of the filming, it seems simpler and more effective than hiring camera police. I actually did sneak a photo from a distance but I will use my good judgement and not post it -- you will just have to trust me on this one. And now I feel the need to end on a cheery note. Getting ice cream with friends is fun! I will go back and take pictures on a non-Nazi day and update the post so that Berlin looks friendly and beautiful. While spending a week visiting my most adorable little niece this spring, I was introduced to the concept of "baby tv," wherein the adults all sit around and stare at the baby, because it's just so entertaining, and did I mention that she's ridiculously cute?
Back in Berlin, it's summer, and we're actually home instead of travelling, which means time on the balcony and wide-open windows to try to beat the heat. You know what else I have discovered is entertaining? Eavesdropping on your neighbors! No, I swear, I mean this in the least creepy way possible, hence my attempt at re-branding this activity as "neighbor radio." Spotify can't compete. Last Saturday morning, we were sitting at the kitchen counter with coffee in hand, the windows wide open trying to catch a breeze, and what we ended up catching was the loud, amusing, hungover chatter of our neighbors, who were rehashing their antics from the night before. "But that's only because he wanted sex from you." And "Man, I've said it before, but it's not a good idea to get wasted the night before leaving on vacation." Ha. Apparently there was a taxi waiting for them rather impatiently downstairs. Charming, right? This Saturday morning, on the balcony, I was listening to the opera-singing of one of our cul-de-sac neighbors. In our little street canyon the acoustics are such that I couldn't really tell which building the singing was coming from, but it was lovely, and strong. Also charming, right? (An aside - I have met more opera singers in Berlin than anywhere else I've lived, though it's still only a handful. The internet tells me that Berlin is behind only Moscow and Vienna in terms of cities with the most opera performances, and I believe it.) There is also an excellent piano player on our street, whose recitals I quite enjoy. Or maybe it is just someone playing a recording? Now I'm not sure. There is also the 10-year old in our building whose piano and recorder exercises we hear...not quite so excellent, but endearing. Lately I spend a lot of time thinking about my relationship to city life in Berlin. I have always enjoyed living here, but nonetheless have always felt slightly mismatched -- a feeling largely fueled by the fact that the most dominant cultural understanding of Berlin is as a city loved for its techno music and all-night party scene, which is totally not my world. But these little moments lived in close proximity with my neighbors -- this is when I think, Berlin is something special. So on these lazy summer mornings, I am trying my best to soak it all in. On Friday evening Hannes and I bicycled to the slightly far-flung neighborhood of Wedding to watch an outdoor movie. A little after midnight, we were on our bikes again, headed home. The air was pleasantly cool after a sticky scorcher of a day, the streets quiet, and I thought to myself -- I love this. Truly, these biking-through-Berlin-in the-summer-dark moments count as my favorite city moments of the whole year. They bring out my most romantic city-girl self (which is usually overshadowed by my tree-hugger nature-girl self, despite living in the city). I feel energized and awake, which is not my usual late-night status. I feel Parisian because I'm wearing a skirt and on a bicycle. The city itself is prettier in the low lighting, everything slightly fuzzy and glowing. And more often than not, we are biking through the Tiergarten, or by the Brandenburg Gate, just because it's on our way home, no big deal. In these moments, the city is beautiful, and it is mine.
In Part I I covered German food and outdoor eating favorites. Here is another smattering of my opinions on food in Berlin. Outdoor Weekly Markets My neighborhood market is on Saturday mornings at Winterfeldplatz, and I have to say it’s pretty great. Here you can find my very favorite Berliner Maultaschen at Barbaras Küche. You can order them to eat right away at a standing table, or you can buy Maultaschen to prepare at home. The market also full of other edible goodies, and while the selection is often changing, one favorite is an incredible espresso + tiramusu stand. I haven’t made it to many other neighborhood markets...mine is so good, I’m not really motivated, plus let’s be honest - getting out of bed on Saturday morning is not my strong point, so it’s easier to stay close to home. The Turkish market at Maybachufer (Tuesdays and Fridays) is supposed to be especially worth a visit. But really, there are markets all over Berlin, if you walk around long enough you are likely to stumble upon one. Cafes with Wifi Just kidding. This isn't really a thing in Germany. Your best bet if you want wifi on the go is in museums - many of them have free wifi. I've also seen signs for free wifi in DM markets (a nice CVS/Walgreens type chain), you could try there too if you end up walking by one. Hipster food events Street Food Thursday, Markthalle IX. Actually, this renovated market hall is beautiful and yummy and worth a visit during normal opening hours, or for their “regular” Saturday market. On Thursday afternoons and evenings, the place is on overdrive and full of hip “street food” vendors, selling yummy and creative if overpriced creations. Get there early or prepare to spend a lot of time waiting in line. Same goes for their equally popular “breakfast market”offered one Sunday per month. Bite Club. An outdoor venue with a great location hosts a food truck extravaganza every other week in summer. Also expect it to be crowded. Miscellaneous restaurant and food recommendations
Manouche. Ridiculously cute French crepe place in a nice neighborhood. Go early to avoid waiting forever for your food. Adana Grill Haus. Delicious Turkish grilled meats and sides. Berlin has a large population with Turkish heritage, so places like this feel more “Berlin” to me than the places serving southern German food. This one is a particularly delicious one, in a non-fancy setting. Anne Blume. People (okay, especially women) love this brunch-and-cake place in Prenzlauer Berg, with its ridiculously cute tiers of edible goodies. If you need a little break from the frenzy of the big city, combine a trip to Anne Blume (you probably want to make a reservation if you want weekend brunch) with a walk around the Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood, it’s cute – and known for being filled with parents with double-wide strollers. If it’s a Thursday or Saturday, you can check out the market at Kollwitzplatz. On a Sunday, check out the furniture-heavy flea market at Arkonaplatz - it's nice and calm as far as flea markets go (and also full of cool stuff), though you're unlikely to find an awesome bargain. Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe). This famous department store has a ridiculously huge food section on the top floor, including quite a few counters where you can pretty much get anything you could possibly think of to eat. If you want to feel fancy, go to KaDeWe for oysters and champagne (which of course is not cheap). At first, I found the food section of KaDeWe to be ridiculously decadent, and I would come out questioning the morals of capitalism. Seriously – who needs a section of jam that’s practically as big as the entire (admittedly small) grocery store I normally go to? But I have come to appreciate the opulence a bit. KaDeWe is where I could order a fresh turkey for Thanksgiving, and it was the best roast turkey I’ve ever eaten, ever - though I can give myself some credit as the cook ;). In any case, KaDeWe is a foodie destination, and I grudgingly admit that it deserves this reputation. Knofi – Choose from a huge selection of mediterranean dips and salads in a super cozy deli-style atmosphere. Great for vegetarians. Locations on Oranienstrasse and Bergmanstrasse in Kreuzberg. I need to preface this by saying: this is not the same as where to eat in Berlin if you're a local. Living in Berlin I go out to eat a lot, but my go-to cuisines are Vietnamese, Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern. Also, I mostly go out to eat in my (lovely) neighborhood, but unless you are a gay man, there aren't exactly many tourist attractions nearby. Also: in my view, the German dining experience is first and foremost about the experience - ambiance, decor, and coziness are highly valued. The food is secondary. Which is to say, the food is usually good but often standard, I don't see much striving for creative and amazing in the culinary department. But that's just the food snob in me talking. ;) My advice is to go with it - seek out the restaurants in a great setting with a cool scene, and just soak it in. There are definitely some vibes to be found that I have never experienced in the U.S. Eating German.Typical Berlin food Classic Berliner "cuisine" consists of currywurst and döner. Which is basically drunk food. But also legitimately delicious! You can find it everywhere, but there are some clear bests in this category. Currywurst is essentially a hot dog with (mild) curry ketchup. It might not blow your mind, but I find it to be pretty tasty fast food. The classic is Curry 36, with locations at Mehringdamm and Bahnhof Zoo (aka Zoologischer Garten). If you want to pay twice as much but feel good about eating organic, I can recommend Witty's at Wittenbergplatz (by Kaufhaus des Westens/KaDeWe). The best döner can be found at Mustafas, which happens to be across the street from Curry 36 at Mehringdamm. There is quite often a line, but if you arrive at a weird time or when it's raining, then you might luck out and not have to wait. If you do have to wait, do like the locals and get your beverage of choice (which probably should be a beer or maybe a Club Mate) to consume while you're standing in line.The meat at Mustafas is chicken, elsewhere it's more typical to find lamb. I've been meaning to try out a couple of other döner places by Kottbusser Tor - check out this list if you're interested. Warning for the faint of heart: Kotti, as it is affectionately known, is kind of dirty and trashy. Berliner hip kids love it anyway (or maybe because it is so trashy). Things get prettier a few blocks away, but this is not where I'd bring my family on a trip to Berlin. Other German favorites Maultaschen are the German version of ravioli, and I love them - especially because the standard version is filled with meat, not cheese, which means I can eat it! If you are hanging around Unter den Linden/Brandenburger Tor (which you probably will be at some point), I can heartily recommend Die Maultasche for a quick lunch. It is unassuming, untouristy, and authentic. Authentic southern German that is-- Schwabian to be precise -- this isn't Berliner cuisine. For a hearty dinner I can recommend Maultaschen Manufaktur, not too far from Potsdamer Platz and right next to my favorite dive bar Kumpelnest 3000. Beer and pretzels...sorry guys, you should really go to Munich for this. There is plenty of good beer to be found in Berlin, but it isn’t the traditional German beer you probably expect. (Bottled, you can of course get traditional southern German beer – my favorites are Augustiner and Rothaus.) I cannot drink the bigger Berlin beer brands, which include Berliner Pilsner, Berliner Kindl, and Schultheiss. I know I am a snob, but ick. The good news is, the craft beer scene is getting big in Berlin, but they are mostly producing west-coast style IPAs. So if you are visiting from the west coast of the USA...maybe this isn’t so exciting. Or if you are a beer connoisseur, maybe you can pick out the finer differences between Berlin hipster beer and west coast hipster beer, I don’t know. I really like Heidenpeters, which can be found in Kreuzberg in Markthalle IX, and sometimes elsewhere if you’re lucky. I’ve always wanted to go check out Eschenbräu, which I expect is less hipster. Or check out this guy's list of the best craft beer bars in Berlin. As for pretzels, they are simply better (and bigger) in southern Germany. If Munich is on your itinerary, get a pretzel and a Maß (1L beer) at the Chinesischer Turm in the English Garden, and the pretzel will be delicious and as big as your head. Other German restaurants to try in Berlin: Joseph Roth Diele. Not far from Potsdamer Platz, this place is supposed to be good. But it's not open on Saturdays or Sundays! Zur Letzten Instanz. Near Alexanderplatz, this place claims to be the oldest restaurant in Berlin. I've never been, but it's on my list of places to try out when visitors are in town. Mutter Hoppe. My (completely awesome) German hairdresser tells me this place is authentic "Berliner" food and great for guests. Also near Alexanderplatz, it's also on my list. Reservations recommended. Eating outside. If the weather is good, you should do like the Germans and consider only restaurants with outdoor tables available. Almost every restaurant that wants to have customers in the summer will have some sidewalk tables. That being said, there are some places where it’s extra nice to sit outside. Beer gardens The concept is simple, and awesome. Sit outside at picnic-bench type tables, and eat and drink. Beer Gardens in Berlin don't have the same traditional feeling as those in southern Germany, but they have their own flair. Food and drink are self serve. These are my favorites in Berlin. Cafe am Neuen See. In the middle of Tiergarten, a very leafy atmosphere complete with small lake and row boats. It’s lovely, and rather fancy as beer gardens go. Rather untypically, the go-to food here is pizza. Cafe am Neuen See also has an indoor cafe that’s quite cozy in winter, complete with roaring fireplace. Schleusenkrug. Also in Tiergarten, an easy walk from Bahnhof Zoo (Zoologischer Garten). On the canal, also very green, and a good place to watch soccer in case the German national team is playing. Wide selection of food that’s good for vegetarians, though prices are high by Berlin standards (which means normal by anyone else’s standards). This is my go-to beer garden, in part because it’s close to my house. ;) Prater Garten. Berlin’s oldest beer garden, located in Prenzlauer Berg. Ever so slightly punk rock, especially compared to the rest of Prenzlauer Berg. I don’t get here too often because it’s way across town for me, but I like it. Other Cafe behind Haus der Kulturen der Welt (House of World Cultures). Right on the Spree river, not far from the Reichstag, this is a nice sunny place for a beer or a snack. As a bonus, you can pick up tourist boats here which will take you into Mitte. Cafe im Literaturhaus. A bit off Kudamm, this is a quiet little oasis that’s great for a light lunch or coffee and cake. They also have an indoor “winter garden,” which is a little less casual. Cafe Einstein Stammhaus garden (in the back). This is in the style of a Viennese coffee house – the interior is quite nice AND a scene from Inglorious Basterds was shot here. My favorite place to sit, though, is in the back garden. The best thing on the menu is the Apfelstrudel, though they also do a beautiful-looking brunch. It’s slightly pricey (again, by Berlin standards). Prinzessinnen Garten. The real reason to come here is if you're a fan of urban gardening...this is a super cool and creative community gardening project. They also have a leafy outdoor cafe, perfect for a beer or a fruit juice schorle and cake. They serve one warm lunch dish each day and pizzas in the evening, and everything is vegetarian, with veggies from their own garden. A true oasis in the middle of Kreuzberg. Note that they are not open in winter (the season runs roughly from May-Sept.) I suspect that deep down I am really not a city girl - I'm too much of a nature lover (and no, city parks don't cut it, however nice they may be). But one great thing about living in the city is that I can discover new cultures (microcultures? subcultures?) right outside my door. Last weekend we somewhat randomly ended up with free tickets to an event that previously I didn't even know existed: chess boxing. Although I am neither a fan of chess or boxing, I found the whole thing completely entertaining and amusing. Basically, chess boxing involves alternate rounds of chess and boxing, each round lasting 3 minutes. It goes for 11 rounds, and is over when someone either gets a check mate or a K.O. In the case of a tie after all the rounds, the fighter who has more boxing points wins the fight. Let me tell you what it was like.
If you like the following, you will like (possibly love) Berlin: Burning Man breaking rules New York City artists grafitti staying up all night cheap ethnic eats coffee and cake The funny thing is, none of these are really my thing, aside from the ones that involve eating. But so far I'm really liking Berlin anyway - the city has lots of energy, the living is cheap, and it feels like there's a lot to uncover. My illustrations of "breaking rules" and "grafitti" are below. This is Teufelsberg, the site of a US National Security Agency listening station during the cold war. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teufelsberg You're not supposed to be walking around here, but everybody does.
|